Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati responded to persistent rumours of his departure from the famous French brand in the best way possible tonight, with a sharp and sensual collection that twinned the YSL DNA with a strict modernity.Black and white tweed tailoring evoked a mood of elegance mixed with laid-back chic, especially in cocoon coats and swing- back jackets detailed with gold chains to match the handbags. Short shifts had a Left Bank 60's air in PVC and leather, with tweed.

The monochrome mood was echoed in furs printed with Prince of Wales check and polka-dot patent. The bright colour palette of YSL was revisited in purple feathered skirts and coats in cobalt silk. The finale parade of white silk, crepe, ostrich and satin - in halter gowns and pleated 'palazzo' pants with white chiffon shirts - updated Saint Laurent's eclectic exoticism for a new generation.

Front row guests included Jane Birkin, Lou Doillon and Kristin Scott Thomas, whose daughter, Hannah, has just won a place to Columbia University to study journalism.